Dream bivouacs in France: from Chamonix to the Tour du Mont-Blanc, my story and my advice

credit: Lucie Saint Martin (@stmlu)

To go camping is to taste a absolute freedom for a night under the stars. I still remember my first night bivouacking facing the Mont Blanc massif: shivers of excitement, a hint of apprehension, and upon waking, the sun painting the eternal snow orange – a sight forever etched in my memory. Through this article, I will take you with me from Chamonix in the Pyrenees, passing through the legendary Tour of Mont Blanc and the wild corners of the Mercantour. Prepare your backpack, I share with you my most memorable bivouac experiences, accompanied by concrete advice so that you too can experience these adventures with complete peace of mind. Whether you're a novice or a seasoned camper, I hope these authentic stories and practical tips will inspire you to pitch your tent in our most beautiful natural spots. So, are you ready to go on an adventure?

First night in bivouac facing Mont Blanc (Chamonix)

The choice of the spot and the wonder upon waking.

For my very first bivouac in the mountains, I had set my sights on a small flat area near the Bellachat refuge, above Chamonix. The place is renowned for its breathtaking view of Mont Blanc, and I confirm: it is an extraordinary balcony over the entire massif. In the evening, after a tiring climb of a few hours, I pitched my tent below the refuge, on an authorized bivouac area. As night fell, the lights of the valley twinkled far below while in the distance the white silhouette of Mont Blanc stood out against the moon. Despite my fatigue, the excitement prevented me from sleeping right away: I spent long minutes sitting in front of my tent, contemplating the ghostly glaciers shining in the night. The next day at dawn, I timidly opened the tent door... to discover a magnificent sunriseThe first rays caressed the dome of Goûter and the Aiguille du Midi, coloring the snow pink and then gold. A magical moment that made me instantly forget the efforts of the day before and the slight morning freshness. This waking up facing the roof of Europe remains one of my greatest mountaineering experiences.

Practical advice for camping in Chamonix.

The Chamonix region attracts a lot of people, so it is crucial to get the right to inform before pitching your tent. First, know that in the nature reserve of the Aiguilles Rouges which dominates the valley (side of Lac Blanc, Index, etc.), the bivouac is allowed between 7 p.m. in the evening and 9 a.m. in the morning only – outside of these hours, the park considers you to be in violation. In addition, some once popular sites are now prohibited to protect the environment: for example, the famous White Lake no longer allows bivouacking on its banks, due to overcrowding. Favor dedicated bivouacking areas (like near the Bellachat refuge, where I was, or near Lac des Cheserys while respecting the park rules).

Equipment-wise, even in summer the nights can be very fresh at altitude (sometimes close to 0°C at around 2000 m). Plan for a sleeping bag suitable for cold weather and a good insulating mattress. Mont Blanc creates its own climate: thunderstorms can break out quickly on summer afternoons. Before leaving, check the weather on Chamonix and don't take the risk of bivouac in the high mountains due to the risk of violent storms. If you are a beginner, choose a spot near a refuge or a popular place: in case of a problem, you will not be isolated. My last piece of advice for Chamonix: take the opportunity to look up at nightFar from the city lights, the sky is incredibly clear. You might see shooting stars while the massive silhouette of Mont Blanc rises up before you in the twilight—an unforgettable sight that really makes bivouacking so worthwhile.

A week-long adventure – the Tour du Mont-Blanc bivouac

A tale of wandering: between exploits and introspection.

After a few overnight bivouacs, I wanted to take the experience further: go on a trek for several days. around Mont Blanc in complete autonomy. The Tour du Mont-Blanc (TMB), renowned as one of the most beautiful treks in the world, was ideal for this. With my backpack loaded with everything I needed (tent, sleeping bag, stove, food for several days), I set off for about 170 km on foot around the massif, successively crossing France, Italy and Switzerland. Every day, I walked between 6 and 8 hours, crossing high passes like the Col de la Seigne or the Grand Col Ferret, with breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding peaks and glaciers. At the end of the afternoon, I looked for a place to set up my bivouac: sometimes near a guarded refuge (to enjoy a hot meal and a friendly atmosphere before going to sleep in my tent a little further away), sometimes in the middle of nature, for example on a grassy area overlooking the Courmayeur valley or near a stream near Champex.

This bivouac itinerary was both a personal achievement and an introspective journey. Finding yourself alone with yourself during these long walks, then isolated in your tent once night falls, offers a form of meditation active. In the evening, exhausted but happy, I would think back on the highlights of the day – crossing a snowfield in the morning, meeting a curious ibex, the incredible view of the Grandes Jorasses – and I would savor this mixture of total freedom and simplicity. No hotel reservations, no strict timetables: just go at my own pace and stop wherever nature wanted to welcome me for the night. Of course, it's not all rosy: I endured a night of intense rain that put my equipment to the test, I experienced the sometimes heavy solitude of an evening with no one around for miles around... But in the end, what a pride to have completed the loop in one week, thanks only to my legs and my autonomy! The Tour du Mont-Blanc bivouac will remain as one of my greatest adventures.

Our tips for successfully bivouacking the TMB.

Setting out on the Tour du Mont-Blanc independently requires a good preparation : it is a physically demanding route (around 10,000 m of cumulative elevation gain). Before leaving, practice on shorter treks and make sure you are comfortable with your bivouac equipment (putting up/taking down the tent efficiently, filtering water if necessary, etc.). On the TMB, the regulations differ depending on the country crossed: in France and Italy, bivouacking is tolerated above a certain altitude or far from roads (for example, in Italy, it is permitted above 2500 m, below it is prohibited for nature protection). In Switzerland, on the other hand, bivouacking is much more restricted in the TMB zone (some areas prohibit it altogether, requiring you to sleep in a refuge or official campsite). So find out precisely at each stage where you can pitch your tent legally.

One trick is to alternate bivouac and refuge : this lightens the bag a little (no need to carry 7 days of food, you can have dinner in a refuge some evenings) and allows you to shower from time to time. Personally, I had planned two nights in a refuge during the week, the rest in bivouac. Let's talk about the bag, precisely: try to travel light. Over such a distance, every extra kilo is felt on the climbs. Opt for a compact tent and sleeping bag, and don't overload yourself with clothes (you can wash a t-shirt along the way and dry it on your bag the next day). In terms of safety, inform your loved ones of your approximate route and give regular updates if possible, especially if you bivouac away from busy areas. Finally, remember that the TMB is very popular: even when bivouacking, you won't always be alone. Respect other hikers, be discreet if you're camping near a refuge or a farm, and obviously leave the premises as clean (or even cleaner) than when you arrived. Successfully completing the Tour du Mont-Blanc by bivouac means combining sporting performance, admiration for nature and hiking ethics – a challenge that is both physical and moral, but oh so rewarding!

Bivouacking in the Pyrenees: solitude and wild panoramas

Starry night on the edge of a Pyrenean lake.

Change of scenery: after the Alps, head to the southwest of France to explore the Pyrenees in bivouac mode. This massif offers a rather different experience – fewer people on the trails, a more savage, and often the impression of being outside of time. One of my best memories is located at the bottom of the circus of Gavarnie (Hautes-Pyrénées), not far from the famous Brèche de Roland. Two friends and I set off on a three-day hike in the Pyrenees National Park, taking our tents with us. On the second evening, we set up camp near the Espuguettes lake, a small high-altitude lake perched at over 2,000 m. No roads, no shelters nearby – just the silence of the mountain, broken from time to time by the whistle of a marmot or the distant crash of a serac. When night fell, the spectacle above our heads left us speechless: a incredibly starry sky, streaked by the Milky Way. We spent the evening wrapped up in our jackets, lying by the lake, pointing at the constellations and savoring this unique sensation of being alone in the world. In the distance, the dark silhouette of the Vignemale, the highest peak in the French Pyrenees, like a guardian watching over us. That night, there was no artificial lighting, no light pollution—just the natural clarity of the stars and the glow of our headlamps to make a hot soup. It was a rare moment of plenitude, where the raw nature of the Pyrenees enveloped us completely. The next day, we woke up to a thin film of frost on the tent (the nights are cool, even in summer, at these Pyrenean altitudes!), and the sun soon warmed our numb limbs. Bivouac in the Pyrenees, it is to accept a certain isolation to better appreciate the pure beauty of these still preserved mountains.

Tips for the Pyrenees.

The Pyrenees massif stretches for hundreds of kilometers, and the rules may vary from place to place, but one constant: in the heart of the Pyrenees National Park, bivouacking is generally permitted between 7 p.m. and 9 a.m. (as is often the case in parks, to avoid prolonged wild camping). Outside of these protected areas, the same principles apply as elsewhere: ask permission if you are on private land, and stay away from very touristy sites where camping would be inappropriate. The Pyrenees are less frequented than Mont Blanc, so it is easier to find pitches there. quiet and isolated, but you have to be extra careful precisely because there are fewer people: in case of a problem, the nearest help may be far away. Make sure you have a first aid kit and possibly a distress beacon if you are going to really remote areas without a phone network.

On the climate side, beware of summer thunderstorms : they are legion in the Pyrenees, especially at the end of the day. Set up camp early enough to avoid being caught out in the middle of a pass during a storm. If the sky becomes dangerously overcast, it is better to descend a little or move closer to an open cabin/refuge rather than remaining exposed under a summit. Generally speaking, identify any potential hazards on the map unguarded cabins or pastoral shelters: they can serve as a fallback in case of hostile weather (and this allows you to bivouac nearby with a plan B). Finally, don't forget that in certain areas of the Pyrenees, you will come across a rich wildlife : it is not uncommon to see chamois, roe deer, or hear the roar of the stag in the fall. Always store your food properly to avoid attracting animals near the tent (out of respect for them and for your sleep!). By following these tips, you will be able to fully enjoy the incomparable charm of a night bivouac in the Pyrenees, where nature reigns supreme.

Bivouac getaway in Mercantour (Southern Alps)

Story at the heart of wonders.

To conclude this overview, head to the south of the Alps, in the Mercantour, a national park well known to hikers and nature lovers. I had often heard about the Valley of Wonders – this magical place dotted with rock carvings and high-altitude lakes – and I decided to organize a bivouac there on a mild September night. After a day of walking from the Lac des Mesches, I arrived around 4 p.m. at the edge of the Long Lake in the Valley of Marvels. Autumn was beginning to tint the grasses red, and I only encountered a few hikers already descending towards civilization. I pitched my tent a little below the trail, on flat ground a good distance from the lake (to allow the animals to come and drink peacefully at night). The air was mild, lightly scented by Swiss pines and golden larches. After a frugal meal facing the magnificent landscape of Bégo and Gran Capelet mountains, I wrapped myself up and looked forward to nightfall. The Mercantour, far from the big cities, offers a night sky of exceptional purityThat evening, I was treated to a real festival: thousands of stars appeared, each one brighter than the last, and even a few shooting stars tracing ephemeral lines above the treetops. Not a human sound – just the discreet rustle of a vole in the bushes and, in the distance, the bellow of a deer signaling the arrival of autumn. I felt privileged, almost intimately invited by nature to share this moment. The name "Wonders" took on its full meaning. In the early morning, my tent was beaded with dew. I took the time to sip a steaming coffee while admiring the first rays of light revealing the stones engraved several millennia earlier by our ancestors on the orange slabs. This mixture of human history and natural majesty, experienced in a solitary bivouac, gave my escapade a special dimension – a journey through time as much as a night outside.

Tips for camping in the Mercantour.

The Mercantour National Park tolerates bivouacking, but under certain strict conditions. First, as elsewhere, camping is only allowed between sunset and sunrise (roughly 7 p.m. to 8 a.m., to be adapted according to the season). It is absolutely forbidden to make fires (risk of fire very high in the south, especially in summer). The Valley of Wonders is a sensitive area both ecologically and archaeologically: you can only camp there in authorized areas, staying on surfaces without vegetation so as not to trample the fragile lawns. Another aspect in the Mercantour is the presence of shepherds and flocks in the summer pastures. Who says herd often says guard dogs (patous) Be careful where you pitch your tent. Avoid camping right next to a flock of sheep to avoid arousing the suspicion of the patous during the night. It's best to talk to the shepherd if you come across one; he'll be able to recommend a quiet spot away from the animals.

Finally, since Mercantour is close to the Mediterranean, you might think that the nights are warm... Wrong! At 2000+ meters, it can be very cool, even in summer, and the wind can pick up suddenly. Plan ahead. windbreaker, and secure your tent (storms can be violent here too, although they are less frequent than in the Pyrenees). In September-October, definitely bring warm clothes because nighttime temperatures drop quickly. As for water, find out about sources: many streams dry up at the end of summer in the Mercantour, so you need to take enough water or know where to find it (ask the park rangers or the surrounding refuges). Strictly follow the golden rule: we leave nothing behindThe Mercantour bivouac areas must remain free of waste so that others can have the same chance as you to bivouac in a preserved place. By following these tips, your night in the Southern Alps will be all the more beautiful, with your head in the stars and your heart filled with serenity.

Conclusion

Of Mont Blanc to the Cévennes, of the Pyrenees to the Southern Alps, France is full of fabulous places to experience bivouacking. Through these few stories, you have been able to feel a glimpse of the magic specific to each region: the high-mountain atmosphere and golden sunrises of Chamonix, the sporting commitment and total freedom on the Tour du Mont-Blanc, the magnificent solitude of the Pyrenean lakes under the Milky Way, or the mystical charm of Mercantour and its starry nights. Bivouacking is a different adventure every time, but we always find this exhilarating mix of simplicity (having only a tent or the open sky as a roof) and wonder in front of nature.

If I had to give you just one piece of advice as a closing, it would be this: dare to try the experience. Prepare thoroughly, find out about local rules, equip yourself properly – and then go for it, even if it’s just for a short night near home at first. The first time is often intimidating (spending the night outside, without the comforts of home, shakes up our habits), but it opens the door to so many discoveries about yourself and the landscapes around you. You’ll probably come back from your bivouac physically tired, a little dirty… but with bright eyes and an indelible smile!

Remember that bivouacking involves responsibility: that of respect nature that welcomes you. By following the “Leave No Trace” principles (leave nothing, leave nothing) and using common sense, you contribute to ensuring that these places remain intact for others and for the wildlife that lives there. This is also the spirit of bivouacking: humility and gratitude towards the mountain or forest that offers you shelter for a night.

Now all that's left is for you to write your own bivouac story. Whether it's a night at the foot of the Alpine giants, a legendary loop like the TMB, or a secret corner of our countryside, the important thing is to live the moment to the fullestPack your bag, bring friends or go solo, depending on your mood, and go and experience the thrill of the great outdoors. Good luck, and who knows – we might even meet along a path, headlamps on our heads and bags on our backs, looking for the perfect spot for the night!